Nancy, dressed at enormous expense by the greatest artists in Paris,
stood there looking as if her body had merely put forth,
of its own accord, a green frill.
Virginia Woolf
image of Christian Lacroix Spring 2009 Couture
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Showing posts with label John Galiano. Show all posts
Showing posts with label John Galiano. Show all posts
Poiret on the Faubourg Saint-Honore
Paul and Denise Poiret having breakfast in bed.
their design style?
Bohemian- full of pattern-the walls were a red and blue fabric, bold floors, a stripe,a provencal style printed cloth. The Poiret's set up a small table at the foot of the bed with stools pulled up for idling the afternoon in away with a guest or two perhaps? Above the bed-Dutch painter-Kees van Dongen's Quietude.
Denise shown here in the same room- but a different painting by van Dongen and a Indiennes print on the bed. Kees van Dongen's circle of friends-the Poirets, of course, and the likes of the infamous Marchesa CASATI.
Kees van Dongen "Woman with black stockings"
Marquesa Casati- Kees van Dongen
Josephine Baker- Kees van Dongen
Poiret's father- a shopkeeper.
Poiret -Legendary Couturier.
Paul Poiret turned to dressmaking in 1896 after meeting Jacques Doucet. A visit to Vienna in 1910 & an introduction to Josef Hoffman solidified the Poiret look. His Atelier Martine and Maison Martine on the Fauborg Saint -Honore drew stylish women and men to gaze at the designs of Poiret: rugs, carpets, wallpapers and of course the clothes. Painter Julian Louis Sue worked with Paul Poiret on designs and atelier interiors- Sue left to establish his own design firm and went on to become an influential designer in Paris with Andre Mare.
Poiret's creativity knew no bounds at the time-Raoul Dufy and Poiret began printing their textile designs, long time collaborators-In their studio- La Petite Usine- the two captured in daring color combinations and patterns-the spirit of the restless era their friends ran about in.
A costly undertaking to decorate 3 barges at the 1925 Paris Exposition, brought Paul Poiret to his knees financially. Like so many designers, Poiret could not reduce the cost of the creative process. That Poiret's style lives on is evident in that the POIRET aesthetic continues to reappear on the fashion and design landscape.
Poiret inspired by John Galiano for Dior.
"A Couturier, has as many languages as he has fabrics
with which to sing of the beauty of women."
Poiret
Steven Meisel photographs Natalia Vodianova
for Vogue
Poiret screen
"If you want to attract attention," Doucet is said to have told a young Poiret, "be seen in fashionable places with a striking young lady whom you dress according to your own ideas and develop into a special type of your own."
1919 Photograph by Delphi
Courtesy of Les Arts Décoratifs, Fonds
Mme Poiret wore wigs of kingfisher-blue and viridian-green, stockings in purple silk or golden mesh,
Mme Poiret wore wigs of kingfisher-blue and viridian-green, stockings in purple silk or golden mesh,
read a Hamish Bowles article about Poiret-here
Denise Poiret
POIRET'S best model
the Original
Denise Poiret
She had "a very independent, almost exhibitionist spirit." Harold Koda
Denise Poiret's Own
at Drouot Richelieu Auction House
photograph from Luxe Chronicles.
images from GYPSET STYLE
by Julia Chaplin
an Edward Zajac designed Dining Room
walls covered in custom designed papers and cutouts.
POIRET STYLE
A Garouste & Bonetti interior, Hong Kong
in Elle Decor The Grand Book of French Style
A Poiret designed bedroom
Mural design by Fromental
"Willow"
...in fact one need only look back to the bedroom Denise and Paul Poiret shared on the Faubourg Saint-Honore to find all the elements of POIRET style.
read this essay by Sue Hay,Curator of Costume and Textiles Museum of Art, RID here
read about Kees van Dongen here
images from mensioranne at Picasa here
Iribe's pochoir "Les Robes de Paul Poiret" (1908) at artphile here
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Catherine Earnshaw at Christian Dior
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The collection of Christian Dior by John Galiano presented in Paris-
evoking Catherine Earnshaw Linton, the Heights, the moors, the heath-
"I've dreamt in my life dreams that have stayed with me ever after,
and changed my ideas; they've gone through and through me,
like wine through water, and altered the colour of my mind."
"Heaven did not seem to be my home;
and I broke my heart with weeping to come back to earth;
and the angels were so angry that
they flung me out into the middle of the heath
on the top of Wuthering Heights; where I woke sobbing for joy.
That will do to explain my secret, as well as the other"
"My love for Linton is like the foliage in the woods.
Time will change it,
I'm well aware, as winter changes the trees -
my love for Heathcliff resembles the eternal rocks beneath -
a source of little visible delight, but necessary."
The collection of Christian Dior by John Galiano presented in Paris-
evoking Catherine Earnshaw Linton, the Heights, the moors, the heath-
"Heaven did not seem to be my home;
and I broke my heart with weeping to come back to earth;
and the angels were so angry that they flung me out
into the middle of the heath on the top of Wuthering Heights;
where I woke sobbing for joy. T
hat will do to explain my secret, as well as the other."
"I sought, and soon discovered,
the three head-stones on the slope next the moor —
the middle one, gray, and half buried in heath —
Edgar Linton's only harmonized by the turf and moss,
creeping up its foot — Heathcliff's still bare.
I lingered round them, under that benign sky;
watched the moths fluttering among the heath,
and hare-bells; listened to the soft wind breathing through the grass;
and wondered how anyone could ever imagine unquiet slumbers,
for the sleepers in that quiet earth."
watched the moths fluttering among the heath,
and hare-bells; listened to the soft wind breathing through the grass;
and wondered how anyone could ever imagine unquiet slumbers,
for the sleepers in that quiet earth."
All photos on Style.com Here
All about Wuthering Heights Here
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Dragon Empress
MY DRAGON EMPRESS ADDICTION
the Original
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in the late 1800's The Dragon Empress CIXI ruled China with a ruthlessness that would make any Dragon breathe harder. CIXI ruled for 48 years-Her modi operandi: CIXI held court from a red throne shaped like a dragon- hidden behind a silk screen. Her dictums concluded with “Hear and obey." ( I think my GranMa used to say that- In fact , she had a wonderful special Chinese frock I was allowed to wear when spending the night!)THE PRETENDERS
Hollywood's Dragon Empress
Competing Dragons
photograph of Marlene Dietrich and Anna Mae Wong in Shanghai ExpressJohn Galiano's Dragon Empress
Alexander McQueen's kinder gentler Dragon
from style.com
HEAR & OBEY HEAR & OBEY
HEAR & OBEY HEAR & OBEY
this Dragon is currently under wraps in a Guest Room -
love the scallop hem detailanother Dragon in the Library
Drew Barrymore's Dragon
photographs from Domino MagazineClarence House's Dragon Empress happens to be my favorite fabric. I have used it in my own home three times. This has to be a record. A wicked combination of Turquoise, Orange and Mustard exists- and I used that colorway on a little slipper chair in my White Oak House. That was my first Dragon Empress.
The club chair in the Pink, Green and Orange was in my bedroom there and now lives quietly after an intervention of slipper covers from old crochet work. It must be in SHOCK- but I know underneath all that old white lies the Dragon.
Lastly- I returned to the Dragon when trying to finish off a chair for the Library- the Empress said "Hear and Obey-" the perfect fabric - muted tones of toast, blue, turquoise and cat tongue pink.
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