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Showing posts with label Gloria Vanderbilt. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Gloria Vanderbilt. Show all posts

GV: Style

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from
 Obsolete here
Madeline Weinrib here

image of Gloria Vanderbilt's hall of mirrors by Ditte Isager for the book The World of Gloria Vanderbilt


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today's (w)r&r

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(w)rapping


reading


an absolute treasure of a book-really a Must Have-if you don't already.



1st image from the pages of House and Garden.

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once upon at time

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the idea incubated by Diana Vreeland, Horst and Valentine Lawford in the pages of VOGUE, the conjuring of images in homes we want to occupy. No scratchy arrows or punch words evoking- "how to get the Look." The IDEA was to "read" - to "see" individualism. It doesn't exist anymore in the homes of the famous- and rich.





Why do we love certain houses, and why do they seem to love us? It is the warmth of our individual hearts reflected in our surroundings.  -  
T.H. Robsjohn-Gibbings 










Do either of these women need introduction?
I'll remind you of these every now and then and please let me know...

HOUSES, GARDENS, DESIGN and ENTERTAINING? Where are you inspired?

Do such Vreelandesque collaborations exist and have I missed them?




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she wore Fortuny

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La robe de Fortuny que portaitce soir~la Albertine me semblait comme l'ombre tentatrice de cette invisible Venise. Elle etait envahie d'ornementation arabe. Marcel Proust, 1923, La Prisonniere



Gloria Vanderbilt and Fortuny, photographed by Richard Avedon for VOGUE 1969. In the article Vanderbilt recalls her first glimpses of the innovative gowns made with a revolutionary patented process by Fortuny :

"I recalled first seeing the gowns at Miss McNeill's Madison Avenue shop before they stopped making them...There was a whole wall of floor to ceiling drawers each filled with different coloured dresses... each its own rainbow  of shades from the deepest to the palest tones, of red, or green, or blue, or violet... It was beautiful...Just absolutely beautiful... And since you never hang them up they just lay there, tenderly tucked away in loose curls and twists like little embryonic fishes."









"Each dress has an exclusivity, a nicety of details that is at the heart of its desirability, and the unique texture of the fabrics gives each one a remarkable simplicity and,at  the same time, an extraordinary luxuriousness." -GV




Vanderbilt wore the jewelry designer- Rita Delisi's artful body ornament creations with her Fortuny gowns. " It was Fortuny's idea that woman is always something more than woman.. a flower... an urn... a statue."- GV  The Delisi pieces seem to enhance that idea.





 of all the outdoor and indoor gowns that Mme. de Guermantes, wore, those which seemed to respond to  a definite intention, to be endowed with a special  significance, were the garments made by Fortuny form old Venetian models. Is it their historical charterer, is it rather the fact that each one of them is unique that gives them so special significance that the pose of the woman who is wearing one while she waits for you to appear or while she talks to you assumes an exceptional importance as though the costume had been the fruit of a long deliberation... Proust





the Louvre's Nefertiti & below  the Charioteer of Delphi- both inspiration for Fortuny.














Lillian Gish-1920 at left , Natasha Rambova,1924, (r)




the incredible TINA CHOW in Fortuny




Lauren Bacall in Fortuny, 1976







Isadora Duncan & her daughter in Delphos gowns,at left,Mme.Conde Nast, 1909, (r)




Natalia Vodianova in her Fortuny gowns




&
Now-
get yours.











FORTUNY PEPLOS GOWN, c. 1920. Pink crinkled silk with attached short sleeve tunic, the bottom curving toward open side seams trimmed in silk cord and joined at intervals with blue Murano glass beads, matching trim on sleeves and tunic bottom, separate pink silk sash with metallic stenciled design. Sash and seam tape stamped "Fortuny Dep". Length 57, sash 2 5/8 x 45. (Silk drawstring frayed) otherwise excellent. $5,000-6,000. (HERE)















TRAINED FORTUNY DELPHOS GOWN with ORIGINAL BOX, c. 1920. Pale orange silk having draw- string neckline, side seams decorated with brown striped yellow beads, stenciled bodice bands (detached), tape label "Fortuny Depose Made in Italy", drum shaped box with Madison Avenue boutique label on lid, Fortuny store label with customer name and address on bottom. Bust 38, front length 55, back length 63. (Small spot on front, draw- string frayed, stitch marks from bands) good. $4,000-5,000.(HERE)




alas, likely it will be this-  THE WORLD OF GLORIA VANDERBILT  by Wendy Goodman.

but it's really quite alright- she has long been seen and admired here. As Town and Country writes-and rightly so-'There will never be another Gloria Vanderbilt.'




a great piece in T&C's November issue is devoted to photographs of Vanderbilt by Richard Avedon-who introduced her to third husband Sidney Lumet. Photographers Horst, Gianni Penati -a favorite GV photo of mine- and Toni Frissell's work are featured as well.

the long overdue book by Goodman provides intimate access to Vanderbilt archives- photographs, portraits, personal collections and her extraordinary homes and Anderson Cooper- Vanderbilt's son, writes the foreword.

get it-
if you can't get your Fortuny.




see my own Fortuny here

images from VOGUE Nov 1969,  FORTUNY, Deschodt and Poli
and Whitaker Auctions

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classic Blass

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yet more proof that Bill Blass was a fashion original.
classic wax seal becomes a signature button.
fitting, No?
"I remember one of the first times I went to Paris 
as a young man-
to see the shows for Maurice Rentner. 
here were all those slightly fussy European ladies
in their frills and furbelows,
in strolled Gloria Vanderbilt and C.Z. Guest 
in flannel trousers and cashmere turtlenecks.
they were a breath of fresh air.that sporty brashness, 
the ease, the naturalness 
and elegant comfort of the American attitude-
that's what it's all about."



BLASS Fall 1991 Collection- mine is a double breasted navy cashmere & to me those buttons are priceless.

image from Bill Blass An American Designer
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GV Gloria, Hosanna in excelsis!

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...& with continuing admiration for Gloria Vanderbilt, HOUSE & GARDEN December 1969- Glorious and everything here holds up forty years later- interiors, decorations and the Gloria Vanderbilt style. All photographs by Beadle speaking for themselves.

Safe and happy snowy holiday weekend travels.






Ding dong merrily on high,
In heav'n the bells are ringing:
Ding dong! verily the sky
Is riv'n with angel singing.
Gloria, Hosanna in excelsis!

E'en so here below, below,
Let steeple bells be swungen,
And "Io, io, io!"
By priest and people sungen.
Gloria, Hosanna in excelsis!

Pray you, dutifully prime
Your matin chime, ye ringers;
May you beautifully rime
Your evetime song, ye singers.
Gloria, Hosanna in excelsis!




















 

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GV- FACEbook II (updates)

(photo NYTimes by Tony Cinecola)
NEW PROFILE PIC


STATUS
Finally the book that would "ruin a repu-ta-tion.' Oh goodie.'

What's ON Your Mind
"When two dearest close friends, after reading an earlier draft, cautioned that if published, it would ruin my repu-ta-tion, I restrained myself from saying, 'Oh goodie!' GV

RECENT ACTIVITY

Just Launched OBSESSION:An Erotic Tale. Diane Von Furstenberg hosted friends at the signing. Stellar crowd. Read the NYTIMES review here.

"I do think all art is autobiographical, and I do think I know quite a bit about women. I don’t know anything about men.” GV


"In her new novel, Gloria Vanderbilt has created a remarkable tapestry of human passion--an interior world of highly charged erotic mysteries that teasingly suggest, but ever elude, decoding. OBSESSION is a poetic tale on the nature of possession and obsession." (Joyce Carol Oates )

NEW PICTURES
(photos from Style.com)



DV & GV



Kiera Chaplin
Kiera Chaplin-granddaughter of dear debutante friend ONA O'NEILL and Charlie Chaplin & Great Granddaughter of Eugene O'Neill.


Ona and Charlie Chaplin

Ona had"a wonderful quality of oriental objectivity about life." GV



Gorgeous Tina Brown of the Daily Beast
"Warmth and zest and cheekiness...OBSESSION is erotica even your grandmother can love." The Daily Beast



Salman Rushdie


"Writing about work and writing about sex are probably the two hardest things-if- I'm still doing it when I'm 85, I'll be very grateful." SR


AC-proud son
"At 85, whatever she wants to write is fine with me.”



GV FACEbook I (here)